I completely recovered the glovebox door and radio console in the same color Biscuit colored vinyl as the rest of the interior. That glovebox panel took almost as long to do as the radio console. I wasn't sure how I was going to do it so I just 'winged it'. I used Permatex Super Weather-strip Adhesive (affectionately known as 'gorilla snot') to glue most of it together. A little super glue at the edges kept the seams nice and clean.
     On the glovebox door, the front vinyl is actually tucked down behind the normal rubber bumper strip that runs along the bottom front edge, then it was stretched and wrapped around the bottom and up the back.
    The radio console was really tricky. In the end, the seams ended up just about a 1/4" back on the sides from where the original stitching would have been. I left the edges overlapping and when the glue was dried and setup, I cut both edges (overlapping) at once. This left a very tight seam that I simply superglued together and to the surface of the metal box. The seams are barely noticeable (at least not any more noticeable than the original stitching seam was.

  
    Well, after twenty-five years, (ten+ Midgets ago) I finally figured out a way to add a gauge to the dash. I cut out the back with a Dremel tool, dug out the hardfoam, leaving the softfoam, right up against the front surface vinyl. With a heat gun (there's that heat gun thing again) I heated the vinyl from the front and the back. When it was really hot, I used a preform I had made to press in on the bulge just to the right of the headlight switch. I held it until it had cooled, and viola! A new 'angled' dash area, big enough for a voltmeter to mount. Yes, one terminal is a bit close to the dash metal work but was easy to trim down so it won't short out.

     Well I just had to go and do it. Well...actually it helps hide a bit of the vinyl rework needed after installing the voltmeter. I covered the dash fascia with matching vinyl. I only had to cut one seam, and there are only three fold-overs on the entire area that was covered.  The top edge is covered by a Dash Cap which also covers the 2" break in the top of the dash. The center of the dash where the beige ends, is simply trimmed with a small piece of automobile L-shaped 'door edge guard'. Truly, the pictures don't do it justice.

     I stripped down all the gauges. It started with fixing the innards of the speedometer and odometer. Even the dual 'oil press/water temp' gauge was disassembled so I could clean out the dust and reseal all the lenses. The light switch is brand new, while every other contact was stripped cleaned and rebuilt. The

     The all black dash in the above photo,.... arrived at my door, the day I finished the covered one. A fellow E-mail List member selling off some parts, was passing through the area and dropped it off right at my door in person. Seems he grew up just a 1 mile from here and was stopping to see his parents anyway on his way through town. Talk about timing! So, ...now I have an entire extra dash with all gauges (including the dual press/temp gauge) working properly and the wiring harness to the gauges still attached ('74 model year dash)as is the pressure pipe and temp. sensor plumbing.

     I used a 'T' pull handle for the bonnet...easier to grab. A road wheel metal MG logo center cap  emblem was used to cover up the really screwed up hole the P.O. had made to pass the cable through. You can see one of the extra footwell lights I added on the sides of the radio box. I also added a piece of vinyl to the wall above the air vent hose to fill in a bit.

    The convertible top from Robbins requires you to custom locate all your own fasteners. You have to punch 1/4" holes to fit the Tennax fasteners through. The two halves of the fastener screw together through the hole you punch in the material. I found the tips of my circlip pliers held in my finger tips, worked great as the 'special tool' for tightening the Tennax screw on backs.