Measuring the bores I found cylinder #3 (that actually had the low  compression) was amazingly in better condition than cylinders #2, & #4, that still had good compression.

The dimensions in the following tables are 2.900" minus what's in the
table. That means the cylinder is 'oversize' by that amount

First measurements of the cylinders after initial piston removal.

               rear front of block

      After honing, cylinders #1 (at the right) and #2 are looking good and are only at 2.902" worst case (0.002" over stock diameter) Something else to notice is the 'chaff' from the original block casting in the water passage between the left two cylinders in the above picture. I'm going to break out the rest of it to open up the full little triangle. This should allow a greater cooling water flow and will match the opening in the head. I'm going to do this in all the water passages.

front of block    rear     

     At the top of the #1 cylinder (upper left) you can just make out a small dark line about 3/8" below the top of the cylinder. Although I can't feel it with a fingernail, or see it on the bore gauge, I think I'll hone it just a bit more. The lines at the bottoms of the cylinders are at the original 2.9" even. 

      After initial honing of the cylinders to break the glaze on the walls and flatten them a bit, I noticed a problem. In the #4 cylinder. There was a very visible vertical 'groove' up the front face (towards the front of the engine). I could just barely feel it with my finger nail, and to the best of my abilities, the bore gauge said it was roughly 0.0007" deep. Much more visibly identifiable, than measurable because of the honing striations.  After further honing this 'groove' has now almost completely disappeared.

After honing the cylinders (three times), I'm leaving it at these dimensions. (Plus I'm getting better at using the bore gauge)

     I found a clean, simple way to mask off the cylinders. I always use a thin coat 3M's Copper Spray gasket dressing and use to tediously  tape off the inside top edges of the cylinders.

   A much easier way... simply fold in half, lengthwise, a piece of printer paper, roll it up and stick the tube in the cylinder. Then stuff a paper towel or two in the cylinder to fill it out. Then you can spray away without contaminating the cylinder walls.

The cylinder block after copper coating

    Both  surfaces of the gasket as well as the deck and head surface get a coating. The idea is to add metal particles to the seal area, not cover or soak the gasket in copper color. I've never had a gasket ever leak or blow. (YMMV)

And the head with masking still in place and a copper coat

The head back in place with the intake exhaust manifold area 'copper' coated.
Yep... it's back to black again as well.

       After a ton of cleanup, polishing, and sealing, all the ancillaries are back on.    Starting it up for the first time I suggest the following procedure.

   Now I've heard run it at 2krpm for 1 hour, then drive, and other camps say, drive the break in cycle driving right away, while avoiding long cruises for the seating period. So what do you do?  I did a bit of both.   :-)