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   Emissions and Crankcase Ventilation 
         A study and a fix.. for a Triumph GT6

   Emissions and Cranckcase Ventilation Issues

Home   Research and decision making    Standards and calculations    Exhaust scavenging     D-I-Y   
Well after the success with the oil removal from the intake sctream, via the upper filter on Big Red (first 5 emissions experiments) I decided to add an oil separator to my 1967 Spitfire MKIII.  But how do I do it? Cleanly and cheaply?  I needed a container that can be opened up to change filter material as needed, and a way to let the collected oil if any, drain back to the crankcase.

The components of the oil separator

   So off to the hardware store I go, in search of a something I can use. It had to be air tight, with a removable lid and small. 
   I ended up with one of those outdoor electrical conduit connection boxes. It has a screw on lid, with two ports in the directions I needed them. I also grabbed a few adapters for smaller pipe sizes to thread into the box, as well as another brass screw in barbed hose adapter.
   The black stuff and the screen is the remainder of the filter stove hood vent filter, left over from the first vacuum canister build, currently in Big Red (Breather Systems #5)  An original PCV valve is at the upper left in this photo.

   I cut out a piece of the screen to stuff in the box to keep the filter wad from getting sucked into the intake. I realized now, after getting everything home, that I didn't need the hose adapters at all. A 1/2"id. hose, threads into the box nearly perfectly. Then when you stuff the rocker cover vent pipe in, it wedges even tighter. So to with the port of the PCV valve as you'll see in the next pictures.

  After installing the screen I simply cut out a section of the filter material, rolled it up into a log, and stuffed it down into the box. You need to make sure you gewt it into the corners so air doesn't simply bypass the filter media along the walls.
   The box came with a paper seal, but I thought cork would work better to seal with a vacuum applied.  So Iused the lid to 'template' the two holes for the cover screws. I laid in a bigger than needed sheet, screwed on the lid, then trimmed the cork to fit. I then popped it back open, and laid on a layer of  Blue Hylomar just to make sure I'd maintain a good air tight seal.

   AS I mentioned before, the adapters weren't even needed. the 1/2" diameter hose screws in rather snugly to the ports of the box. (Oh, the box is 'on-the-shelf' as a 1/2" conduit box. There are metal AND plastic ones. Buy the metal one)  I applied a light coat of Hylomar t othe threads and on the hose. Screwe dthe hose in, then cut it to length as desired.

    I mounted the filter at an angle, so any oil that collects, can simply drain back down into the rocker cover.  I literally just wiggled the box back and forth until the hose was jammed on tight to the rocker cover port.
   At the PCV end, again a force fit of the hose into the filter box, and a hose clamp on the PCV valve port.  I made a little bracket to hold the PCV valve, so vibration should not knock this assembly loose while driving.


   The bracket is a simple L shaped piece of metal, bolted to the tab on the PCV valve, and hose clamped to the passenger compartment heater core feed hose.  

    We'll see how this works when I get it out on the road when the snow melts here. 


   Emissions and Cranckcase Ventilation Issues

Home   Research and decision making    Standards and calculations    Exhaust scavenging     D-I-Y   



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