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New trunnions and U-joints   
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   Whitey - 1975 Spitfire Specific Tasks and Procedures

Transmission    The vibration    second rebuild    Clutch    O/D    driveshaft 
Special Update Whitey finally gets it's 6 cylinder engine, Fuel injected at that!
Section #2 - Whitey's Spit6 conversion Process                     F.I home page

This page is more a document of a 'bypass' I've found
and a safety procedure. If you do it this way,
you do it as your own risk!

     When replacing rear axle u-joints, you need to remove the axle. Torquing the spring to upright bolt needs to be done, AFTER you lower the car, and settle the suspension. This is the only way to get proper set of the bushing in the spring eye. Trying to torque this bolt once the wheel is back on, and the car is on the ground is a pain to say the least.

    Well when performing this task I use a short cut that has proven a real time saver, and a safety measure to boot.


w75_rearaxle_onstands.jpg (18195 bytes)

     After blocking the front wheels I jack the car up by the center frame rail just below and behind rear diff. I then sit my metal car ramps under the center chassis rails. They are angled and positioned (front to rear of the car) to coincide with the height of two more jack stands under the rear chassis extensions.


w75_rearaxle_extrastand.jpg (23025 bytes)
extra jackstand in the rear, two under 'trapeze'


w75_rearaxle_picklefork.jpg (28034 bytes)
spring supported on a trapeze


    With the chassis firmly on stands, I place the hydraulic jack under the brake drum (park brake engaged). I place two jack stands one fore, and one aft, of the axle. I jack up the drum until the car just starts to lift off the stands so the spring is firmly compressed as if it was sitting on the wheel on the ground.

      I then stick a pickle fork across the tops of the stands and under the spring. The brake hose is not stretched in the photos at all. One stand is further back than the other. The pickle fork is 'outside' the band clamp on the spring. This way it won't pull the fork 'in' under the springs as it tries to push back down.

      Lowering the hub off the hydraulic jack settles the car back on the stands with the spring compressed up and out of the way. This also makes it very easy to withdraw the axle from under the spring and above the chassis rail

      Now I can go through the exercise of disconnecting everything to remove the axle with full safety from underneath (axles to the diff) as well as no load being on the uprights by the spring.


w75_rearaxle_picklefork2.jpg (26773 bytes)
axle removed spring up and out of the way.
Yes...those are yellow Corvette air shocks


w75_rearaxle_cleaned.jpg (10356 bytes)
Rebuilt axle ready to go back in


     After installing new trunnions and u-joints, The cleaned up and repainted rear axle assembly it ready to go back in.

    The real joy of this method of support, is the clearance of the spring, and the compressed position. I simply lift the hub 'up' into place, inser the top bolt through the spring, and torque it. Then jack up the drum, remove the 'trapeze' and stands. Put on the wheel on and I'm done (on that side anyway). Finish the other side the same way, put the car back on the ground and just roll it out to settle the suspension.

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